Legend of the Amarnath yatra
Imagine a superhero with infinite powers. The only one who knows the path to immortality. He, however, has to give in to his wife’s wish to know this secret.
To keep the secret safe from any eavesdroppers, the superhero chooses a place safely distant from any life.
En route, he lets go of all his companions. His ride, the bull at Pahalgam. The moon that adorns his hair at Chandanwari. The snakes around his neck at Sheshnag. The five basic elements at Panchatarini. His son Ganesh at Mahagunas Top. To finally reach a hidden cave.
This fascinating story is the legend of Amarnath yatra.
The cave where the superhero (Shiva) supposedly narrated the immortality lessons to his wife (Parvati) – the “holy cave” of Amarnath – has become a revered destination for hundreds of thousands of pilgrims. The route that Shiva and Parvati took in this legend is the original Amarnath yatra route.
How did we prepare for the Amarnath yatra?
We were looking for a trek in Kashmir. The Amarnath yatra was about to start. Everyone suggested we make use of this opportunity. We are not too religiously inclined. But the prospect of a journey with hundreds of pilgrims and seeing the ice shivling; the world’s most renowned ice stalagmite excited us.
Physical fitness
By then, we had spent a few weeks in the mountains in Kashmir. We did a few day treks in offbeat places in Kashmir like Chatpal and Yusmarg to increase our stamina and make ourselves fit for the 3-day Amarnath yatra trek. These day treks in Kashmir were enough to prepare ourselves for the Amarnath yatra.
Paper work for the Amarnath yatra
In Pahalgam, we decided to definitely go for the Amarnath yatra. Pahalgam is one of the starting points of the Amarnath yatra. Since we had not pre-planned this yatra, we had not registered for it and did not have the yatra permits. We made use of the on-the-spot registration for the Amarnath yatra.
We got our medical fitness certificates from the government hospital in Anantnag. We then went to the TRC (Tourist Reception Centre) office in Srinagar for the actual registration. Here we were allocated a date for commencing our Amarnath yatra.
Choosing our Amarnath yatra route
We chose the longer route for our Amarnath yatra, from Pahalgam. This is the historic Amarnath yatra route, retracing the steps of Shiva and Parvati. It is a 45 km trek from Pahalgam to the Amarnath cave. We reached the holy cave (this is how the Amarnath cave is commonly referred to) on the third day.
These days, the first 15 km, from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is just a two-hour drive. The actual trek begins only at Chandanwari.
There is another option, which takes only one day to reach the holy cave. This shorter Amarnath yatra route starts from Baltal. We will tell you in a while why we believe, the longer Amarnath yatra route is a better option.
Itinerary for the Amarnath yatra via Pahalgam
By foot
Day 0:
- This is the day before you starting date for the Amarnath yatra (as specified in your yatra permit).
- Arrival at the Nunwan basecamp/any hotel in Pahalgam.
Day 1:
- Start early in the morning from Pahalgam. Between 6 AM to 7 AM would be the ideal time to leave.
- Get into a shared jeep or bus for Chandanwari.
- Start the climb from Chandanwari to Sheshnag.
- The day ends at the Sheshnag campsite.
Day 2:
- Start early in the morning from Sheshnag, post breakfast.
- You cross the highest point of the Amarnath yatra at the Mahagunas top before lunch.
- The day ends at the campsite at Panchatarini.
Day 3:
- Start early in the morning from Panchatarini, post breakfast.
- Aim to reach the holy cave as early as you can to avoid the long queues.
- You get to spend a few minutes inside the holy cave.
- Once you are done with the darshan inside the holy cave of Amarnath, have your lunch and start the return journey to Baltal.
- Spend the night at the Baltal campsite or take a jeep to Sonamarg/Srinagar/Pahalgam, depending on the time you have.
On a horseback
- The itinerary if you are doing the Amarnath yatra from Pahalgam
Start of the Amarnath yatra
We had been in Pahalgam for almost a week by then. But the morning we were to start our Amarnath yatra was the first time the clouds cleared. From our hotel room in Pahalgam, we got a clear view of Pissutop. This was the first mountain peak we would climb. It is a fabled “toughest stretch” of the entire Amarnath yatra route. We took this as a good omen and set out.
The water of the Lidder river was bright and clear. The sun was out. The air was crisp. Weather, perfect.
The main road of Pahalgam was choc-a-bloc with people. Excited faces. Some apprehensive. Everyone looking forward to beginning their Amarnath yatra. For many pilgrims, this journey is a dream come true -a once in a lifetime event. Some get so hooked on to it, they keep coming back every year. It was a great chaotic atmosphere.
Dramatic scenes greeted us at Chandanwari. Refreshing welcome drinks were being served to the pilgrims. Fistfuls of dry fruits and chocolates were thrust into our hands. Food-wise, this was going to be a luxury trek!
Horses horses everywhere, not an inch to spare
A sea of horses surrounded us. They were waiting patiently as their owners went fishing for passengers.
We figured we would see more people on horses than on their feet during the Amarnath yatra. (For days after the yatra, the sounds of “bolo, ghoda?” – Do you want a horse – kept ringing in our ears.)
The 4 means of transport for accomplishing the Amarnath yatra: the helicopter, horse, palanquin or your own two feet!
Sadhus on the Amarnath yatra
The Amarnath yatra was our introduction to the ways and lives of the sadhus. These days, only the sadhus walk the entire route, from Pahalgam to the Amarnath cave. Every once in a while, we would see the sadhus take a break. A break always involved a round of their favourite smoke. (No, we didn’t dare ask what exactly was in it!)
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